This new high-rise cafe in Fort Worth has a great view. And surprise: It's not expensive
Star-Telegram article by Bud Kennedy
The new Perch is an unassuming weekday cafe and rooftop bar 12 stories up in the new Frost Tower downtown.
But don't be fooled.
Behind Perch's simple all-day menus — counter service at breakfast and lunch, table service at weeknight happy hour — there's a stunning amount of care and precision for such a basic restaurant.
In three trips last week, Perch sparkled both as a skyline lunch spot and as an after-work bistro.
The 12th-floor patio was surprisingly breezy and cool on a hot day. (It helps to be 12 floors above all the concrete.)
The rooftop view down Fifth and Taylor streets is the prime attraction, but the menu and presentation make it more than just a fun elevator ride.
So far, the menu is a limited selection of $10-$14 paninis, flatbreads, sandwiches and salads, plus some light appetizers at happy hour.
A Buffalo chicken flatbread and a meatball panini both impressed with the attention and quality. The flatbread was nicely browned and topped with chicken, shredded celery and carrot, just enough for lunch.
A meatball panini can be a mess, but the Paula Lambert mozzarella and housemade marinara were carefully spread over Angus beef meatballs.
Both came with a fresh house salad with a light, summery lime vinaigrette. The same vinaigrette is served on the Southwest salad, a clever mix of greens, roasted corn, avocado, black beans and pico de gallo.
The house spinach salad has strawberries, pecans and diced cranberries in a balsamic vinaigrette. There are Greek and Cobb salads, along with club, chicken or tuna salad sandwiches, plus a Cuban panini and a chimichurri steak flatbread.
For now, the dinner menu includes the same $10-$14 salads, flatbreads and paninis, plus a dip trio and a hummus trio. There's a short but well-chosen wine list and mixed drinks.
Perch is pitched as "cocktails and cuisine with a view."
The contemporary decor is sleek and handsome, but it's not a fancy restaurant. It's an easy-going, casual place to meet or take friends for a weekday lunch or downtown happy hour overlooking the skyline.
There are plans for weekend service and brunch later.
For now, Perch is open weekdays only, 6:30 a.m. (for breakfast tacos and muffins) to 9 p.m., at 640 Taylor St. (take the elevators up from the bank lobby); 682-785-8888, perchfw.com.
Bud Kennedy, 817-390-7538@EatsBeat
Location Mentioned: Branch & Bird