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This new brewhouse in Fort Worth also dishes up barbecue

November 19,2018

Star-Telegram article by Bud Kennedy 

Some barbecue restaurants brag more about their beer selection.

The new Cowtown Brewing is a beer hall that should brag more about its barbecue.

The downtown brewhouse is off to a booming start as a bar and hangout. It recently added a limited menu of brisket, sausage and ribs smoked in a trailer outside.

Jordy Jordan, owner of a barbecue restaurant in Mansfield, has a hand in the operation. But the barbecue is different from what he serves at Big D Barbecue, he said, although the rubs and sauces are the same.

Cowtown is not going to threaten the top-ranked barbecue restaurants anytime soon. But if you can’t get away from downtown, Cowtown is a good stop for lunch or dinner along East Belknap Street, 1 mile east of Sundance Square.

The brisket was above average one night this week, with a good rub and smoke ring. Pork ribs were meaty but unremarkable.

The “cowboy beans” were the best side dish, although a black-pepper-sausage mac-and-cheese was interesting.

On this night, the mild sauce seemed to be missing something from Jordan’s traditional “organic” formula. The consistency was almost like a Carolina mustard sauce, but the flavor was off. (The hotter sauce had a much more balanced flavor.)

Jordan said Cowtown will launch a larger menu soon.

Cowtown Barbecue is open for lunch and dinner Wednesday through Sunday. If you know where the Sonic Drive-In is downtown, Cowtown is across the street; 1301 E. Belknap St.,

Location Mentioned: Cowtown Brewing Co